Friday, February 24, 2012

Visioneering Project: Part I

Do the stories you tell yourself contribute to optimism or pessimism?
In general I think of myself as a optimistic person. I am always trying to look for the good in people and situations. However, when it comes to certain topics, like if you asked me a few weeks ago if I envision a sustainable future, I would of said no. Now, I see a different side. Over the past few weeks I have become well informed about the problems we face today with the environment and what we need to do to make a change. From becoming aware and learning this information about the environment, I now have an optimistic envision of a sustainable environment. The article Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness describes it perfectly when they talk about how when you have a pessimistic view "you are more likely to do things that increase the likelihood that you will fail again." Basically you are setting yourself up for failure. The future holds possibilities so you might as well anticipate positive rather than negative. By having an optimistic envision on a sustainable future, I feel that you are more likely to see positive results.

What are the key tenets or characteristics that define you vision?
-Recycle
-Inform and Educate
-Control Consumption

What are the mental modes (or beliefs) which will be required to create that future? What would on have to believe to bring about your vision? 
-You can make a difference. Recycling is almost like a trend. If you recycle, you never know who will follow in your footsteps. Everyone should recycle. It doesn't take much extra time or effort. Recycling clothing takes just as much effort as throwing it away so you might as well recycle it.
-By becoming aware and learning about the problems we face today with environmental sustainability you will be more willing to make an effort towards change because you will realize the problems we face are real but there is something you can do about it.
-Only use what you actually need.

What are some habitual beliefs (the stories we tell ourselves) which may present barriers to your vision? 
In the article Visioneering: an essential framework in sustainability science it talks about how one of the first steps toward sustainability is to envision a sustainable world. It is impossible to envision a sustainable world when you are unaware of the sustainability issues the world faces today. Most people are not well-informed about the issues we face today and how severe they are. I know that a few weeks ago I had no idea that there were so many problems. I didn't think that I could make a change, mostly because I didn't know what the issues were and I wasn't interested. People need to realize that learning about our environmental issues is necessary and that they can make a difference by changing little things in their daily life. For example, reusing materials or recycling clothing. Every single person makes a difference. When one person hops on, more people are likely to join which is what creates a big difference. The article Limiting Consumption: Toward a Sustainable Culture talks about the problems with over consumption and underconsumption. People need to give up the idea that money equals self-worth because this will get you nowhere. Studies have shown that money doesn't by happiness so why do people over consumer? Advertising. Advertising is one of the main reasons why people overconsume. People buy into all these great ads and buy things they don't need and may never use. One solution is that ads are gearing more towards teaching sustainability but ultimately it is up to you.  It may be hard but you need to try to not buy into these ads for the sake of the environment and yourself.

How might you communicate and engage others in your vision that will compel them to follow?
In order to engage others in my vision I will have to be truthful and give them the facts in a way that they will understand. It is important to always be truthful so people will put their trust in me and my vision. Also they need to understand my vision and I can do this by boldly stating the facts. I think also stating what good will come out of this for them is important. Because no matter what people will always be concerned with themselves and they need to know that they will also benefit from this. People will save time, money and the environment by engaging in my vision.

Friday, February 17, 2012

hemp hemp hooray!

Hemp is a very valuable fiber because of it's several uses. Not only can it be used in apparel but it can be eaten, sat on, written on, painted on and even slathered on your body. When most people think about hemp, they associate it with hippies or all things natural. This stereotype has actually has created some problems here in the United States. However, in a way it can be looked at as a good thing because consumers are becoming more and more concerned with "buying green" and hemp is a very natural fiber that causes little harm to the environment.

Hemp comes in several forms and the US doesn't distinguish between marijuana and the non-psychotic cannabis. This means that hemp is not allowed to be grown in the US. Hemp can be imported to the US but cannot be grown here. According to Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial, a small group of hemp enthusiasts called "hempsters" have come together to introduce bills to legalize hemp growing in the US. As of now, the US is the only member of the G7 alliance that is not allowed to grow hemp. The DEA says that the two plants are indistinguishable but Steve DeAngelo, CEO of Ecolution, says that the growing method is different. He explains that in a field the recreational plants are spaced out apart from each other, while hemp plants are grown in close proximity to each other. In the movie Hempsters: Plant the Seed, the also discuss the controversy with the US growing hemp plants. Hemp activist Woody Harrelson plays a main part in the film who shows off his clothing made from hemp. These hempster activists in the film are trying to get the production of hemp to be legal in the US. They are trying to get people to learn the facts about hemp. The interest in hemp is steadily increasing for many reasons, especially its environmental benefits as well as better marketing. Hemp is and expensive fiber so we would save on the cost of importing it if we could produce it here in the US. I do not think that is a good choice on the US's part to not produce hemp. I also do not agree with their reasoning, like DeAngelo stated these are two different varieties and the growing methods of the two are different. I think it would be a great success for the US if we could grow hemp here.

Hemp: Historic Fiber Remains Controversial, emphasizes on how hemp is a growing market because of it's eco-friendly factors. Hemp is often compared to linen and cotton. Hemp and linen have similar growing methods. Hemp, unlike cotton, uses no pesticides to produce and requires little water. Yitzac Goldstein, VP of HTI, says farmers will benefit from the low water use because it will dave them money. Hemp also takes a much shorter time to grow than both cotton and linen. The problem with hemp compared to cotton it that is it much more costly to produce because we don't have the proper technology and there is limited access. Eric Steenstra of Ecolution introduced the term "cottonizing of hemp" which means producing hemp on equipment made for cotton. The results will create better and much stronger hemp. This to me sounds like an idea that could change the ways of hemp for the better. When you combine the fact the hemp is much more environmentally friendly than cotton and much stronger, I would have to say that hemp could become the new cotton. Especially, if hemp can be spun fine enough, it will be a huge competition to cotton and linen. It's because of these factors that more and more people are leaning toward hemp. Big name designers in that fashion industry and slowing adopting the use of hemp into their clothing. This is another thing that will be a huge benefit and cause a huge boost of the hemp fiber. In the article Are You Being Bamboozled? they discuss how you never know if you are for sure being properly informed about the products you are buying. By buying bamboo you may think you are being environmentally conscious. However, that is not always the case because it contain rayon. It is important to be aware of what you are buying. All of the facts have been laid out about hemp and we know that it is good for our environment.

When it comes to cotton, bamboo and hemp, each has their benefits and each has their negatives. However, if a consumer is concerned with going green, I think hemp is the way to go. At the rate that hemp is improving, I think it's on it's way to becoming the new cotton. The US needs to jump on board before they are left behind.

Friday, February 10, 2012

Taking Action Toward Sustainability

Cotton is a fiber that can most likely be found in the majority of items in your closet, seeing as it is the most used fiber on the planet. The problem that we face today with cotton is the production method. It can be expensive to produce and can create many problems in the environment. The key is to find the most sustainable way to produce it.

According to The sustainability of cotton: Consequences for man and environment, cotton is produced in over 100 countries. Of those countries 6 of them produce over 78% of all cotton, China being the top producer with 24% of the worlds total. Cotton can be a rather difficult crop to grow because it is sensitive to drought, low temperatures and attacks by various insects. Every country faces different climates so this can make the production easier or more difficult for certain countries. Water use and pesticide use create the most environmental problems in cotton production. Some countries can be more efficient in the production due to better technology. Another issue is whether organic or conventional cotton is more environmentally beneficial. A majority of cotton(80%) is produced under conventional farm management. But is that a good thing for our environment? Organic farming is a certified type of production, which can be beneficial because it is easier for retailers and consumers to understand the history of the produce and that causes them to make inferences about environmental impact. For some countries, like the USA and Australia, conventional farming can also be classified as organic but the pesticide use may still be high. However, for developing countries conventional farming is anything but sustainable. By increasing organic cotton in rain-fed regions, it will save on water use and no pesticides will be used. Our reading from last week, Fashion Sustainability and Textiles, talks about how more and more people are converting to organic farming and that organic farming can significantly reduce the use of water and pesticides in cotton growing.  I think that increasing organic farming will be the most beneficial option for our environment but for best results it needs to be produced in the proper environment and climate.

The golden age of water is over, according to the video Cotton and Water: White, Blue and Green. In the video they focus on the environmental problems caused by the production of cotton specifically in terms of the lack of water access. The world's most precious natural resource, water, is becoming more precious than ever. The cotton industry is trying to discover inventive ways to use far less water in the production process in factories and the field. Cotton farming now has undergone a dramatic change within the last 8 years. Cotton farmers in the US have developed a new irrigation system where water is delivered directly to the soil unlike old sprinkler system. It has underground pipes that deliver the water to the cotton plat directly. This has saved a lot of water use but is creating other problems. Now, they have to figure out a way to pump less out of the ground because it is getting too expensive. The ultimate goal is to produce varieties of cotton that are far less thirsty and require half as much as they are using now. Scientists believe that you must set a high goal if you want a large impact. In factories, companies in china and india have created high tech textile manufacturing method that uses vibrating membranes that removes indigo moleules after dying so the same water can be used again and again. This system recycles at least 80% of the water and saves 20,00 gallons of water everyday. This video provides many solutions to cut back on water use in the field and in production. It also provides many ideas of ways that technology is still advancing to cut back more because water is becoming more and more limited so we must take action before it becomes a crisis.

Based on my professional opinion, I think that the cultivation of cotton can be sustainable if you do it the proper way. When it comes to organic or conventional farming I think each have their pros and cons but I think we should start seeing a shift more toward organic farming because it has more benefits for everyone. However, I think the key is putting these ideas and suggestions form the reading and video to action. If everyone does their part I believe we will see a significant improvement.

Friday, February 3, 2012

Natural's Not Always Best

People, especially designers, are becoming more and more aware of the issues we face with environmental sustainability in clothing production. The questions we face today are how to solve the problem? And is one solution better than the other? When it comes to using natural v. synthetic fibers there seems to be many different opinions as to which is better. I overheard a coworker explaining that she prefers to use natural fibers over synthetic because they are "natural" and inherently sustainable. I can see where she is coming from that because it is "natural" it has to be better for the environment, right? However, that is not always the case. Synthetic fibers have their perks as well.

I was unaware, as stated in Fashion Sustainability and Textiles, that cotton and polyester account for 80% of the textiles used worldwide today, which leaves us with very little diversity. Producing 1 kg of cotton uses as much as 8000 liters of water. In the past decade they have converted to using more organic cotton, to reduce pesticide and water use, rather than conventional cotton. Manufacturing 1kg of polyester consumes twice the energy needed to make the same amount of cotton. A shift from polyester to renewable and biodegradable fibers could bring benefits. Fibers such as wool and those made from materials like corn starch would reduce our oil dependency. The result would help reduce consumption but it would also create a more diverse and locally sensitive agriculture, more regional fibers, more healthy and socially robust environments and open up more job opportunities. While the production of cotton uses a great amount of water and pesticides, manufactured fibers also how their negatives. Manufactured fibers such as polyester nylon and acrylic use a lot of energy and chemicals that pollute the environment. Both natural and synthetic fibers have pros and cons, but the most impact lies in consumer care. It takes both changes in the production and the consumer to make a different in the environmental problems today.

In the video Textile Exchange, Charline Ducas makes some interesting opening points when discussing the environment and improving the production of fibers. She addresses six ways to be more sustainable including:
1. Reducing, recycling and upcycling
2. Renewable
3. Re-exploring naturals
4. Doing more for less
5. Water-less
6. New-ways
Ducas emphasized the most on "re-exploring naturals" and "doing more for less." In "re-exploring naturals" she explains how we like naturals, like cotton, because they are comfortable and no man-made fiber has been known to provide that kind of comfort. However, natural fibers might not always be the most efficient method. In "doing more for less" she explains how we can be more clever with the way we produce textiles. For instance, she talks about Clariant advanced denim and how it is a more efficient way to dye clothing. I do agree that there are definitely ways we can get creative with production methods to be more efficient.

I don't particularly think that one is better than the other when it comes to using natural or synthetic fibers. Both have proven to have their benefits and downsides. I think it all comes down to getting creative with better production methods from the use of technology and putting our minds together. I, as a designer, will continue to use both natural and synthetic fibers but I will try to think of more clever ways to produce the clothing to benefit our environment.